Stepping
ashore on Iona is an experience certain to delight the visitor.
The visual impact of the place itself and grand views of Mull
and other islands, such as Skye and Rhum, overlaid with the
historic and religious associations affect everyone.
Iona
I Chalium Cille - The Isle of Columcille - St. Columba
The
sacred Isle of Iona is well described in many publications,
these 2 walks allow you to experience the history, wildlife
and scenery of one of the world's most sacred places.
Route
Details
OS
341 Iona and Bunessan. Visitors
are not allowed to take their vehicles onto Iona. Cyclists are
welcome and there are many tracks ideal for both cycling and
walking. Take a 2 minute walk from Seaview onto the Fionnphort
- Iona ferry which runs frequently across the Sound of Iona.
Stout walking shoes and warm clothing required on windier days.
Iona
Abbey is one of the most popular visitor attractions in Scotland
not least because of it's beautiful location.
Saint
Columba landed in 563 bringing Christianity to Scotland.
He built it into a base for his evangelical crusade. The
island was so revered as a holy place that more than 40
Scottish kings lie buried there. Today's Abbey was restored
and used again in 1910.
Today
the National Trust and Historic Scotland look after the
Abbey.
The
nunnery was founded by Reginald, son of Somerled around the
13th century and is known locally as "An Eaglais Dhubh",
literally "the black church". The Gaelic word for
nun is "cailleach-dhubh" meaning "the veiled
and black-robed one".
The
well preserved walls are a mixture of pink granite and yellow
sandstone. In summer the well-tended flower garden is full of
colour and scent and is a peaceful place to spend half an hour
in. At the north end is the medieval church of St. Ronan. This
was the local parish church from the 1200's.
Hidden
in Iona's southeast corner on a rugged coastline is the Marble Quarry
and remains of the quarry machinery. In the late 1700s the Duke
of Argyll decided to extract and market marble from Iona in the
affluent European cities of the time. The scheme was short-lived,
the marble being difficult to extract and transport economically.
In
1907 another attempt was made but again short-lived and operations
ceased at the end of World War I. In the quarry there are remains
of a cutting frame, water tank, gas engine, wheeled platform
and white cut stone blocks. These are now listed as a Scheduled
Ancient Monument.
The
quarry is quite difficult to find. The easiest way to access
it is from the path running south through the middle of the
island to Columba's Bay. Turn off this path at the ruin south
of the small loch, walk in an easterly direction and look for
a grassy gully with two ruins half way down. The quarry is at
the bottom of this gully.
Apart
from those places above there are many other places of interest
to be discovered and enjoyed on Iona. On a clear day the view
from Dun I is fantastic, Columba's bay on the south coast is
well worth the walk as are the beautiful beaches on the west
and north coasts of the island. Iona is also one of the few
places in Britain where corncrakes can still be heard in the
spring and summer.
John
is happy to provide information and a guided walk of the area.
The
West & South Walk - Machair, Columba's Bay & Marble
Quarry 3 hours - rugged walking in parts
As
you leave the ferry, turn left and follow the road past
Martyrs Bay and Traigh Mor. In summer listen out for the
monotonous cry of the corncrake in the iris beds between
the shore and the road. Walk up the hill for ¾
of a mile until you come to a gate.
Continue
through the gate and in front of you is a magnificent
stretch of machair (short grass on sand.) This forms the
basis of the informal Iona Golf Course which looks onto
one of the finest beach views anywhere with the Camus
Cuil an Tabibh (Bay at the back of the Ocean) forming
the backdrop.
Turning
south on a breezy day with a westerly atlantic swell
you will see a fountain of spray rising above the
cliffs. This is a natural occurance called "The
Spouting Cave." Now follow the track due south
over the hillock keeping the loch on your right
and descend down to Port na Curaich (Port of the
Coracle) known as St Columba's Bay.
It is said that, St Columba
landed his coracle here in 563AD. There are views
from here to Soa Island (Sheep Island) and Eilean
Musimal (Mouse Island). There is also Eilean na
h-Aon Chaorach known locally as "one sheep
island," which was worked by the innkeeper
at Iona cottage. The cottage is still situated at
the pierhead.
On
leaving Columba's Bay travel towards the eastern shore
until you find a hollow with 2 ruined cottages. In a deep
gully behind the cottages on the shore you will see the
remains of the Iona Marble Quarry, closed shortly after
the 1st World War. You can look around here for pieces
of stone with green marble in it. Return westwards to
the path at the loch and retrace your steps to the pier.
Wildlife
Watch
Dolphins,
seals, otters, cormorant, shag, eider, buzzard, ring plover,
lapwing, black backed and herring gulls, rock dove, jackdaw,
starlings, linnet, twite, yellowhammer, terns, grey plover,
sanderling and godwits.
The
North Walk - Nunnery, Iona Abbey, Dun I & Beaches
On
leaving the ferry to the right you can see Port Ronain
below the village. On the other side of the bay is Carraig
Fhada (long rock), which served the islanders for many
years as a rough landing place before the modern quay
was in place. The remains of the iron rings in the rock
can still be seen. The present pier was constructed in
1979.
At
the top of the pier is the village Baile Mor (big township)
where most of the islands population live around the island's
only possible harbour. Main Street is off to the right,
and Iona Cottage on the left. Follow the road up past
the Spar shop and turn right into the Nunnery, the quiet
grassy grounds where the Augustine nuns once lived. Locally
known as "An Eaglais Dhubh" (black church.)
The gaelic word for nun is "calleach - dhubh",
meaning "the veiled and black-robed one."
The
masonary of the ruins is a well kept mix of pink granite,
yellow sandstone and grey flagstone. What is left gives
an insight into how the nuns lived. The chapter house,
cloister garden, refectory and dormitory can still be
seen. To the north the nuns prayed and sang in the little
church. The flower garden makes the nunnery bright and
cheerful with it's colour and scent. It is also carefully
looked after by the Historic Scotland staff. At the north
side you will find "Teampull Ronain", which
is a medieval church dedicated to St Ronan. This was the
parish church for the local people, used from the 12th
century.
On
leaving the Nunnery at it's north gate you walk along
the road past the Thomas Telfer parish church, dated 1828.
Set amongst sycamore trees, the only wooded area on the
island which provides a rookery, this area has an almost
spooky but peaceful quality. The manse beside the church
is now the Iona Heritage Centre and is well worth a visit
to find out about island life here, past and present.
Next at the roadside is MacLeans Cross, a fine example
of carving on medieval Iona. It is a central pointing
and marks a last century agricultural boundary between
the east and west ends of the island.
Follow
the road up the hill until on the right you come
to the Abbey grounds and St Orans Chapel. There
is also "Relig Od hrain", the islands
main graveyard where Oran is said to have been buried
alive in order to consecrate the first monastry's
ground. The graveyard, quiet and peaceful, has generations
of islanders alongside early rulers of the Scots
kingdom and chiefs of powerful clan families. The
most recent notable burial was that of the former
Labour leader John Smith.
Iona
Abbey, "cradle of Christianity in Scotland",
stands like a solid rock against the sea, wind and rain,
from the Atlantic gales which blow from behind the graveyard.
Once a Benedictine Monastry, although now for hundreds
of years has been used as a centre of Christian worship
and pilgrimage. There are many books describing the history
of Iona Abbey which you can read and to explore it fully
is an excursion in its own right. Please allow at least
1 hour for a brief visit around Iona Abbey.
On
leaving the abbey gate, turn right towards the north beaches
and looking northeast there are wonderful views of the
Sound of Iona and the pink granite Ross of Mull. In the
foreground you will see the dark threatening Burg cliffs
in the mid-distance, and the magnificent Ben More in the
backdrop standing guard over all it surveys. Beside the
road stands "The Duchess's Cross" which was
erected in 1878 in memory of the 8th Duke of Argyll's
first wife. The granite used in the cross came from the
Dearport Quarry on the Ross of Mull.
To
the left stands Dun I the islands highest hill at 332ft
high. A rough path leads up to the summit which provides
a superb panorama. On a clear day to the north you can
see Tiree, Coll, Barra, Cuillins of Skye, Rum, Eigg, Mull,
Treshnish Isles and the amazing Staffa. To the south you
will see the Paps of Jura, Colonsay, Rhinnes of Islay,
and also Dhu Heartach and Skerryvore Lighthouses. Two
hundred feet from the cairn on the top of Dun I is a pool.
Tobar nah Aois is known as the well of age, and it is
said that if you bathe your face 3 times at sunrise your
youth will be restored!
Continue
north on the road until you come to a gate in front
of you where the road veers left. Go through the
gate and you see from here the machair surrounding
the dazzling white sands of the north beaches. Descend
northeasterly over the machair to Triagh Ban Nam
Monach (white strand of the monks.) Many famous,
(and not so famous) artists have coveted this landscape
for painting because of it's unusual light, variety
of colour and depth of landscape.
From
the white strand walk westwards, past the north headland
staying on the machair (sandy turf), to the beautiful
white sands of Traigh an t-Suidhe (beach of the seat),
and Traigh na Criche (beach of the boundary). Both of
these looking north and west, magnificent, windswept and
lonely. After taking in the scenery and dwelling, return
eastwards over the machair to the road and retrace your
steps to Baile Mor (big township) and Port Ronain.
Wildlife
Watch
Dolphins,
seals, otters, cormorant, shag, eider, buzzard, ring plover,
lapwing, black backed and herring gulls, rock dove, jackdaw,
starlings, linnet, twite, yellowhammer, terns, grey plover,
sanderling and godwits.
